Beatrix

Cold-start thick custard
Thick custards (or crème pâtissière) usually begin with scalded
milk. I did it dutifully every batch. Except that one time, as
an apprentice, when I didn’t, and I made a five-litre batch of
custard from cold ingredients and spent thirty blister-forming
minutes cooking the custard! But you can custard from cold
and remain callus-free with small home-baking amounts.


The wedge of time you carve off by not heating the milk goes
to the cooking time, and that’s a trade I’m happy to make.


enrich this version with cream, not butter, to form a base for
further fat-enhanced good things like the German brown butter
buttercream (page 251) or Whipped custard crème (page 249).


The cornflour in this recipe is your custard insurance policy,
safeguarding the egg from overcooking, so don’t be worried
about boiling this – you actually need it to boil in order to
completely cook the starch. Only custards WITHOUT flour
need gentle heat (see Vanilla malt crème anglaise, page 262).

Happy new relaxed custard life! You’re welcome!

Keeps Up to 4 days chilled.
Don’t freeze.

Makes A small batch is 320 g
(11½  oz) and a large batch is 500 g
(1  lb 2 oz).

Takes 15 minutes plus at least hour
of cooling time.
Small batch Large batch
caster (superfine) sugar 50 g (1¾ oz) 75 g (2¾ oz)
cornflour (cornstarch) 20 g oz) 30 g (1 oz)
fine sea salt 1 g (132 oz/⅛ teaspoon) 1.5 g (124 oz/scant ¼ teaspoon)
cream (35% milkfat) 40 g/ml (1½ oz) 60 g/ml (2 oz)
egg yolk 40 g (1½ oz) (from approx.
2 eggs)
60 g (2 oz) (from approx.
3 eggs)
full-cream (whole) milk 200 g/ml (7 oz) 300 g/ml (10½ oz)
vanilla paste or vanilla bean 4 g (⅛ oz/½ teaspoon) vanilla
paste, or ½ vanilla bean
6 g (⅛ oz/heaped ½ teaspoon)
vanilla paste, or ¾ vanilla
bean
continued